kardamyli
- stoupa walk
KARDAMYLI-
AGIOS SOPHIA- PETROVOUNI-
PROASTIO- STOUPA
Distance- 15 km (4½ hours)
Terrain-
The path up to Agios Sophia is a rocky kalderimi. The drop
into the small gorge on the way to Petrovouni is a little
awkward in places (sticks recommended if used). The rest
of the walk is on wide earth tracks and finally on tarmac
to get down to Stoupa.
Nature
of Walk- A challenging first 30 minutes up to Agios
Sophia (altitude of 180m) but well worth it in terms of
views. After dropping down and back up again to get to
Petrovouni, the rest of the walk is along the “plateau”,
at an altitude of around 200m, between Proastio and Neochori.
There are great views with mountains to your right, sea
to your left and beautiful spring flowers, including “orchid
alley”.
Places
of Interest- The Troupakis fortified settlement
in Old Kardamyli is well worth a visit and is built into
the walk, as are the tombs of the Dioskouri. Proastio
is an interesting village and is worth a wander where
the game is “How many churches can you count?”.
There are 3 kafenions here and a mini-market if lunch
is required.
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The walk begins from the supermarkets at
the north end of Kardamyli. Turn R before the bridge, just after
the supermarkets, on to a road that runs parallel to the river
bed. Before taking the first right turn, on a clear day it is
worth pausing here to look ahead up the Vyros Gorge. The pyramidal
peak is the highest point of the Taygetos Mountains. Known as
Profitas Ilias, it is 2400m high and has a church
on top where celebrations are held every June.
Having turned R, follow the track round, heading towards a
hotel perched up above you. As you reach a bridge on your R,
turn L up a path signed “KAFE MPAR”. If you are
feeling morbid, you could have a discreet peep into the ossuary
you pass on your right! Follow the path round to “Old
Kardamyli”. The path takes you to the square of the Troupakis
Fortified Settlement, including the Church Of Agios Spyridon.
Troupakis
Fortified Settlement
This was the headquarters of Michael Troupakis, the second
Bey of the Mani from 1779-1782 until his execution by the
Turks. His son Mourtzinos became head of the clan and built
the tall war tower which still bears his name. Except for
a short exile in Zakynthos following a dispute with Antonbey,
Mourtzinos occupied and
strengthened the complex.
It was here in March 1821 that Kolokotronis and Petrobey
Mavromichalis brought their forces and joined with the northern
Maniats under Mourtzinos and attacked the Turkish garrison
at Kalamata. This was the first victory of the long and bloody
struggle for Independence which was finally achieved after
the Battle of Navarino in 1827. |
Exit the square through the arch next to the church. Head R and then
almost immediately L up a signed path which also has black and
yellow way-marks. This path takes you all the way up to Agios Sophia
(you can just see the priests' house, perched above you).
After 100m you'll pass the Dioscouri Tombs on your right. The story
here is that naughty Zeus seduced the mortal Leda disguised as a
swan. She then gave birth to two eggs, out of which hatched Castor
and Pollox and from the other, Helen and Clytemnestra. The two males
didn't behave very well and so lost immortality, having to share
their time down in Hades.
The tombs of the Dioscouri
Carry on up kalderimi with gorge initially
on your R and then the Vyros Gorge on your L. After 20- 30 minutes
you reach a stone arch that fronts a dried-up spring. Turn R and
up to reach the church that the village behind takes its name from.
There is a cavernous cistern under the rock by the church- climb
down and take a look.
Head towards the neighbouring cemetery
and 40m after the road towards the village becomes concrete, turn
R down a track that takes you down into the gorge (the path becomes
difficult in places). At the streambed, cross over and the path initially
heads R and up.
After 500m you will come to another stone cistern, this time with
water in and troughs to hand for washing. A green walkers sign here
(Kardamyli) indicates a right turn. Follow the path below a low cliff
on which the village of Petrovouni is perched. The path takes you
to the beginning of a wonderful kalderimi and the view here is stunning.
To cut the walk short, simply head down the kalderimi on to the tarmac
road that will bring you out at the southern end of Kardamyli. To
carry on to Proastio and Stoupa, follow the way-marked path round
the outskirts of Petrovouni, into a small square and on to a tarmac
road.
At stone wall, ignore R turn and go straight
with cliffs on your L The path takes you through “Orchid
Alley”- I have seen Bee, Man and the pink Italica Orchids
along here.
Follow path R (way-marked) and it soon starts to gently climb
again. To reach the church, the path heads L and up over way-
marked rocks.
The church of Agios Giorgios is usually
open and worth a look inside.
From the church, follow the track towards
the village. After 100m, when the track bends left, cross it and
walk across way-marked rocks. The path runs between two stone walls
before bringing you out on the tarmac road. Turn right and follow
the road into Proastio and follow the map to go through the village.
Church
of Agios Nikolaos.
The route through the village takes you past Agios Nikolaos
in the town centre. This was originally an early 13th Century
cross-in-square Byzantine church, later extended to the west
by the addition of an exo-narthex. Until recently the whole
exterior was covered in plaster or concrete but renovations
have now exposed the original cloisonné tile decoration
and some carved marblea great improvement! The frescos inside
are also being preserved but they are of a later date, probably
from second half of the 18th Century. |
If you so wish, you can shorten your walk here and return to Kardamyli
via Kalamitsi. Follow the road marked Kardamyli on the map It passes
the s/market on the R, and then curves to the R, past the village
spring and “wash-house”. Carry on to where the road
bends L and there is a small church with a walkers' sign on the
R. This is where a kalderimi takes you down to Kalamitsi and you
can walk back to Kardamyli on the main road or thread your way
through Kalamitsi back to Kardamyli
From where the maps ends, continue
on this road until you reach a concrete road on L. If you want a
detour to see a 13th Century Byzantine chapel, also currently being
restored, follow this for 500m to the Monastery of Agii Theodoroi.
Retrace back to the road from the church and turn left. Follow the
road round for 400m until you reach a stone bridge.
Cross the bridge and after 100m turn L up a signed kalderimi which
basically cuts off a chunk of road.
Go straight at the “crossroads” of paths, reach the road
again and turn L.
The route across to Lefktron, just above Stoupa, now takes you along
a series of dirt roads that weave their way through the olives. After
280m ignore the R fork and go straight. Soon you pass a shepherd's
hut on your L.
850m after the hut you will arrive at a junction of tracks- turn
L and then R immediately. After 350m pass a derelict house on your
L. 385m after the house, ignore a L turn, go straight and after another
800m the track is joined by another from the R- turn L here and follow
this track round for another 750m. Turn L again at this junction.
Keep on this track for 680m. This time, turn R at the T-junction.
Follow this road until it becomes tarmac and the view down to Stoupa
opens up. Keep straight and the road eventually winds down to the
Stoupa/ Neohori road- turn R and head straight down to Stoupa (or
turn right half way down and cut through Lefktron to arrive at the
bakery junction
The details of this walk are taken
from:
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