Stoupa

map of Stoupa

Stoupa is about an hours drive form Kalamata, passing through Cambos and Kardamyli en route. The approach to Stoupa is dominated by its acropolis at the southern end of the village. Stoupa was known in ancient times as Leuktra, a Free Lakonian City which declared independence from Sparta. This name survives as Lefktron, the village immediately inland from Stoupa on the other side of the main road. Over the last two decades it has emerged as the Mani’s number one resort and yet has not been ruined by over-development. It is very child friendly and has a range of types of accommodation to stay in, ranging from two campsites to studios, hotels and up-market villas.

There are three entrances into Stoupa off the main road. The first of these is signed Kalogria from the main road.  It is a deep beach with pale golden sand and now has several bars and tavernas at beach level. The water is shallow for some distance, making it safe for young children. Natural springs bring ice-cold water direct from the mountains, keeping the general sea temperature cool to say the least, even in August. A pool set in the rocks to the right as you face the sea is uncontaminated by the warmer seawater for those with a masochistic tendency. In 1917 the little-known writer Nikos Kazantzakis arrived from Crete to start mining lignite from the cliffs behind. He recruited the engineer Georgos Zorbas to help – the legend was born. The bust on the main road refers to this literary inspiration.

The Kalogria road passes Stoupa’s other campsite and then loops down to the main village beach. Again fine golden sand and again springs bubble away, though further out to sea than Kalogria. In the summer both beaches have sun beds and umbrellas for hire as well as pedal-boats and canoes. There is no parking (officially) on the beach road and it becomes pedestrian-only in the evening during the peak summer months. There is plenty of choice in where to eat and drink, whether actually on the main beach road or off in more secluded corners.